The process of elimination is the right way to go.

You'll need a multimeter, dwell meter and timing light.

First, three iginition tests...

1. Recheck your point gap. By running on the starter, you should be able to confirm the dwell setting. If you don't have a dwell meter, borrow one or hit sears for the cute little digital one they have. (If your dwell is either 0 or 45, you've found your first problem).

2. Check the post I made for Davide last week about the ingition testing. You're most interested interested in the points-open vs points-closed voltages.

3. Your last ignition check is to observe the timing light with the engine running on the starter. Does it blink with some regularity? If not, one or more plug wires is loose. If you have a good sense for music, put the timing light connection on the center lead of the distributer and then watch the pattern. It should be steady without missing a beat.

4. Pull one plug at random. Is it wet? Does it smell like gasoline? If it's real wet, you might be flooded out. Remove the air cleaner, floor the gas pedal and try to start it again.

5. Starting fluid. Not a good thing to use to excess. But in this case, a little bit in the throat of the intake should get it going if the ignition system is up to snuff. You may need to crack the throttle a bit with your foot to get it going. If it runs for 15 seconds and dies, you ignition system is fine, but your FI system is not delivering gas.

Now the FI system...

6. By the alternator is a panel of three relays. If you have a cluse as to which is which, test them out with your meter. If not, get the 108 chassis manual and/or the 117 (4.5) engine book. The haynes 4.5 engine book will do in a pinch, but it's nowhere near as good as the real thing.

7. With an assistant sitting in the driver's seat and you squatting on the ground at the driver's side rear wheel, have the assistant turn the key, but not to the starting position. You should hear the fuel pump come to life.

8. Same assistant, this time, you're under the hood. With the key turned, you should hear a faint klatta-klatta of the injectors being fired. A mechanics stethescope placed against the injector body will work. Use a long screwdriver if you can't find a stethescope (~10$ at sears). If this test fails for ALL injectors, it's the connector to the brainbox (with the relays) or the connection to the trigger points in the distributor that's afoul. If it's one side, but not the other, suspect the knot of ground wires bolted to the intake manifold on the passenger side.

Charles Hart